About Panama Abu Geisha Natural Lot GN-1847
Arrived late summer 2024 in vacuum boxes, a Direct Trade coffee cupped and purchased at origin. Processing is complex and effective.
Coffee cherries are collected by hand when optimally mature, then are further hand selected and floated in mountain spring water. The whole cherries go through a first phase of sun drying (really pre-drying) on raised beds for 3 days. They then go into sealed grainpro bags where they undergo a dry anaerobic process for a second 72 hours, but the bags filled with dry cherries - not the cherries themselves - are submerged in cool spring water. We have seen this in one other farm but it's quite unique. The submersion in spring water chills the cherries in an airtight environment. Once this fermentation period completes, the cherries are transferred back to raised beds and dry in the sun over the next 25 days. Abu calls this method "Double Phase Submerged Anaerobic".
Abu Coffee Plantations has become a rising star in the stellar universe of Panama's high end coffee scene, the Geisha capital of the coffee world today. This means that Abu has not yet risen to the very lofty price levels that have been attained by some of the more noted names in Boquete and Volcan Panama, the two growing areas surrounding the Baru volcano: Hacienda Esmeralda, Elida Estate (world record price for both scores and price), Kotowa, Auromar and others. That said, the coffee is fairly valued only by comparison, especially for the level of quality. The farm is run by Jose Luttrell, who has been until recent years, a working engineer who has turned his attention to the family farm and the lure of growing and selling Geisha, in particular. We met Jose a couple of years ago, tried his coffee and were impressed by it. Being new on the scene, he met with some difficulties learning the ropes regarding export, all of which has since been resolved. In the interim, the coffee has only gotten better and we are pleased to be able to offer both washed and natural varieties this year.
Abu Coffee grows the Geisha varietal in the region of Canas Verdes, Boquete, in a humid and rainy microclimate typical of the tropical forest. Coffee trees are grown on the slopes of the Baru Volcano National park in fertile, volcanic soil rich with organic content and excellent drainage, which minimizes erosion. Average altitude is 1550 meters above sea level. The shade protecting the plantation is given by native trees that grow in harmony with abundant local flora and fauna, respecting the environment and biodiversity. Given its strategic geographic location, sunlight is a key element throughout the whole process. The plantation receives powerful solar radiation, interrupted in the mornings and sunsets by a soft tropical mist known locally as Bajareque and caressed by thick fog.
Harvest season begins in summer, approximately December and extends until March, months when the humidity drops, which combined with the natural shade and the Bajareque mist, achieves the perfect balance for the maturation process. As a result, the cherries develop fully and intensify the sugars in an optimal manner, enriching the flavor of the cup. The virgin rainforests protecting the farm help create a unique climate that gives the coffee a distinct body and personality, with intense, juicy flavor and aromatic floral notes.
The farm is named in honor the memory of Jose's granfather and his dream of achieving what he considered the best in a cup of coffee, a geisha raised with the highest standards of quality. Abu is short for abuelo (grandfather in Spanish), the nickname his grandchildren used to call him.
- Region: Boquete, Canas Verdes
- Farm: Abu Coffee
- Variety: Geisha
- Elevation: 1,550 meters
- Shade: 60% by native species of trees
- Soil: Volcanic
- Slope: South of Baru Volcan
- Processing Method: Double Phase Submerged Anaerobic Natural
- Harvest Method: 100% handpicking
- Fermentation: 72 hours, see above
- Drying Method (final): 25 days on raised African beds
Cup Characteristics: Significant processing and fruit flavors but tame, approachable and with finesse. Blueberry, lavender, pineapple. Juicy, floral, sweet and well structured. A mouthful of floral and fruit filled flavors. Smooth finish.
Roasting Notes: Geisha coffees have delicate floral flavor notes. Roasting them lightly highlights their florality and if allowed to develop a bit with heat reduced or off after first crack (depending upon your roaster) body will increase. If pulled too soon the coffee can be green tasting and thin but too long and florality, what you are paying for, can disappear.